How to Safely Jack Up Your Car for an Oil Change How to Safely Jack Up Your Car for an Oil Change

Safe DIY vehicle-lifting guide

Raise and Support Your Vehicle Without Trusting the Jack Alone

To jack up a car safely for an oil change, work on hard, level ground, identify the vehicle’s approved lifting and support points, chock the wheels that remain on the ground, raise the vehicle with properly rated equipment and lower it onto a matched pair of jack stands before any part of your body goes underneath.

The emergency jack supplied with many vehicles is designed mainly for roadside wheel changes. It is not a safe support for someone working beneath the car. When the correct stand locations are unclear—or the jack and stands cannot both fit at the approved points—stop and use ramps, a professional lift or verified factory repair information instead of improvising.

Non-negotiable rule Never work beneath a vehicle supported only by a jack.

Correct surface Hard, dry and level—preferably sound concrete.

Correct locations Use only vehicle-approved jack and support points.

Before going underneath Lower onto stands, verify stability and keep wheels chocked.

Follow the lifting steps Find the correct lift points Using car ramps instead

Plan the support points Know where the floor jack and both stands will go before lifting any part of the vehicle.

Raise and transfer the load Lift slowly, position a matched pair of stands and lower the vehicle evenly onto them.

Verify before entering Confirm centered saddles, locked stands, wheel chocks and complete stability from outside the fall zone.

Avoid unnecessary lifting

Do You Actually Need to Jack Up the Car?

Before raising the vehicle, check whether the oil drain plug, oil filter and underbody fasteners can be reached safely without placing your body under a low-clearance area. Some trucks and high-clearance SUVs provide adequate access while parked normally.

Adequate factory clearance

Leave the vehicle on level ground when the complete oil-change procedure can be performed without crawling under a low or unsupported area.

Still secure the vehicle: Park or select gear, apply the parking brake and chock as appropriate.

Moderate front access needed

Properly rated drive-on ramps may be simpler because the wheels remain supported by the ramp surfaces.

Check drainage: Final oil-level measurement must normally be performed on level ground.

Low-clearance car

Use a suitable low-profile floor jack and approved stands, a low-angle ramp system or a professional lift.

Do not force access: Verify that the jack can reach the approved point without contacting bodywork or the battery enclosure.

No verified support points

Do not begin. Obtain the correct owner’s manual or factory lifting information, or have the oil change performed professionally.

Never improvise with the oil pan, transmission case, floor sheet metal or suspension arms.

Use the method with the fewest failure points: When correctly rated ramps provide safe access and suit the manufacturer’s oil-draining procedure, they may be easier than transferring a raised vehicle from a jack to stands.

Ten non-negotiable checks

Car Jacking Safety Rules to Complete Before Going Underneath

Use hard, level ground Do not lift on a slope, loose gravel, soil, unstable pavers or soft hot asphalt.

Confirm approved points The floor-jack point and jack-stand points must be identified for the exact vehicle.

Check equipment ratings The jack, stands and ramps must be suitable for the load, lifting height and vehicle design.

Chock grounded wheels Block the front and rear of wheels that remain on the ground with purpose-made wheel chocks.

Keep the engine off Do not raise the vehicle with the engine running or anyone sitting inside it.

Use stands as a pair Support one raised end evenly with matching stands following their manufacturer’s instructions.

Lock every stand Use the correct locking pawl or supplied pin—never a screwdriver, bolt or improvised substitute.

Center every saddle The support point must sit fully and squarely on the stand saddle or approved adapter.

Test stability outside Check for shifting before placing your head, hands, chest or legs under the vehicle.

Keep an exit path Do not surround yourself with tools, drain pans or parts that prevent a quick movement away.

The jack is a lifting device—not a support: Hydraulic seals, valves, wheels or ground contact can move or fail. Transfer the vehicle’s weight to approved stands before working underneath.

Match the lifting method to the vehicle

Floor Jack, Ramps or Emergency Jack: Which Should You Use?

Lifting method	Appropriate oil-change use	Main advantages	Critical restrictions
Hydraulic floor jack plus jack stands	Common choice when approved central and support points are known	Controlled lift, adjustable height and broad vehicle compatibility	Never work under the jack alone; verify the saddle, stands, ratings and support points.
Drive-on car ramps	Useful when front-wheel elevation gives safe access to the plug and filter	No transfer from jack to stands; wheels remain supported	Vehicle can overshoot, ramps can slide and the car remains angled. Chock the grounded wheels.
Factory emergency scissor or screw jack	Roadside wheel change at the specified side point	Compact and supplied with many vehicles	Do not crawl under a vehicle supported by it. It may not suit floor-jack or stand placement.
Bottle jack	Selected body-on-frame trucks or SUVs when the manufacturer permits it	High lifting capacity in a compact shape	Small base, high minimum height and limited saddle compatibility can create instability.
Portable vehicle lift	Useful when designed for the vehicle’s approved lifting points	Can raise both sides evenly and provide broad access	Follow the lift manufacturer’s capacity, locking, spacing and adapter instructions exactly.
Professional two-post or four-post lift	Workshop use by trained operators	Excellent access when correctly positioned and locked	Incorrect arm placement or vehicle balance can still cause serious injury.

Do not combine equipment casually: Stacking random wood, bricks, concrete blocks, loose pavers or improvised metal pieces under a jack or stand can create an unstable load path.

Find both lifting and support locations

How to Find Your Car’s Correct Jack and Jack-Stand Points

The side points shown for a roadside tire change are not always the complete instructions for workshop lifting. You need to know where the floor jack lifts and where the stands support the vehicle after the jack is removed or unloaded.

Identify the exact vehicle. Record the model year, make, model, engine, drivetrain, body style and market. Use the VIN when different suspensions or battery layouts are available.

Read the owner’s manual jacking section. Search for “jacking points,” “lifting the vehicle,” “changing a tire,” “vehicle support” or “handling of the jack.”

Look for arrows, notches or reinforced pinch-weld areas. Many unibody cars mark side jacking points with arrows or reinforced seams near the wheels.

Determine whether the manual shows only emergency-jack points. A side point designed for the factory jack may not provide enough room for a floor jack and stand at the same time.

Consult factory repair information for central lift and stand points. Look for a diagram identifying floor-jack, hoist and safety-stand locations for the exact vehicle.

Inspect the installed components. Check whether the vehicle has aftermarket side skirts, underbody panels, lowered suspension, replacement subframes, running boards or battery shields.

Confirm any required adapter. Pinch welds, lift pucks and frame-contact pads may require a specifically shaped adapter approved by the vehicle or lifting-equipment maker.

Plan the jack-to-stand transfer before lifting. Know exactly where both stands will be placed while the jack remains at the lifting point.

Stop if the diagram is unclear. Ask a dealership or qualified workshop to identify the correct points rather than testing an unverified part of the underside.

Possible approved areas

Use only when documented

Reinforced pinch welds, designated frame rails, approved subframe areas, axle housings or manufacturer-defined central jack pads may be used when the exact procedure identifies them.

Commonly unsafe guesses

Do not assume these are lift points

Engine oil pan, transmission case, exhaust, fuel tank, floor sheet metal, battery enclosure, steering parts and thin suspension components.

Modified vehicle

Original diagrams may be incomplete

Lowering kits, lift kits, replacement pans, side skirts and aftermarket underbody parts can change access and lifting geometry.

Official example: Honda instructs owners to use firm, level ground, place the jack at the specified point, align the jacking tab with the jack notch and never get under a vehicle supported only by the jack.

View Honda’s official jacking instructions

Inspect every item before lifting

Equipment Needed to Raise a Car Safely

Rated hydraulic floor jack Check the load rating, maximum lift, minimum height, saddle and operating condition.

Matched jack-stand pair Use compatible stands with readable capacity labels, intact locks and suitable saddle shapes.

Purpose-made wheel chocks Use chocks sized for the tires rather than loose bricks, stones or scraps.

Approved jack-pad adapter Use only when needed for the vehicle’s pinch weld, puck or lift-pad design.

Bright work light Good visibility helps confirm the lift point, saddle contact, leaks and tool position.

Safety glasses and gloves Protect against dirt, rust, hot oil and underbody debris.

Oil drain pan Use a stable container with more capacity than the engine’s complete oil fill.

Torque wrench and sockets Use correct tools for the drain plug, underbody panels and filter housing.

Phone within reach Keep communication available, especially when working alone.

Equipment inspection checklist

Capacity markings are readable
No hydraulic leak is visible
Jack wheels roll and swivel properly
Saddle is undamaged
Stand bases are flat and unbent
Stand posts and teeth are undamaged
Locking pawls or pins engage fully
Ramps have no cracks or distortion
Wheel chocks grip the tire and surface

Remove equipment from service when

The jack slowly lowers by itself
A stand is bent, cracked or heavily corroded
A lock does not engage positively
A capacity label is missing or unreadable
A jack or stand has been overloaded or dropped
A ramp is split, crushed or sliding
The equipment is affected by an active safety recall

Check safety recalls: Search the jack or stand brand, model and date code. Stop using recalled equipment until the manufacturer’s remedy is completed.

Open the NHTSA recall search

Prepare the work area first

Where It Is Safe—and Unsafe—to Jack Up a Vehicle

Surface or location	Recommended?	Reason	Better action
Sound, level concrete	Best common choice	Provides a hard, predictable base for jack wheels and stand feet.	Clean away oil, sand and loose objects before lifting.
Sloped driveway	No	The vehicle, jack or stands can move sideways or downhill as the suspension unloads.	Move to a truly level work area.
Gravel or loose stone	No	Jack wheels and stand feet can shift or sink unevenly.	Use a hard, level service area or professional workshop.
Soil or grass	No	The surface may compress without warning under concentrated stand loads.	Do not work underneath there.
Hot or soft asphalt	Avoid	Stand feet and jack wheels may sink, tilt or damage the surface.	Use stable concrete rather than improvising a base.
Uneven pavers or tiles	No	Individual pieces can tilt, crack or settle under the load.	Relocate to one continuous hard surface.
Road shoulder	Emergency use only	Traffic, slope, soft ground and limited space make maintenance unsafe.	Use roadside assistance or move to a safe service location.

Do not try to correct a slope by stacking materials under one side of a jack or stand. A level-looking saddle does not make the underlying work area stable.

Stop the vehicle from rolling

How to Prepare the Car Before Lifting It

Position the vehicle straight. Center the steering unless the manufacturer’s procedure instructs otherwise. Leave adequate space around both sides and the front or rear.

Switch off the engine and remove the key. Keep a keyless-start fob away from the start button so the vehicle cannot be started accidentally.

Select Park on an automatic transmission. For a manual transmission, select first gear or reverse according to the owner’s instructions.

Apply the parking brake firmly. Remember that the parking brake may act only on the rear wheels, so it cannot replace chocking.

Chock wheels that will remain on the ground. Place chocks firmly against the front and rear of the appropriate tires.

Remove occupants, pets and unnecessary cargo. Nobody should enter, lean on or rock the vehicle while it is raised.

Open required access panels before lifting when practical. Confirm the drain plug and filter locations so you do not discover an access problem after going underneath.

Set air suspension or service mode when required. Some vehicles can automatically change ride height. Follow the exact manufacturer procedure before lifting.

Keep children and bystanders away. Create a clear work zone around the jack handle, stands and vehicle.

Park is not a wheel chock: The transmission parking mechanism and parking brake reduce movement, but neither replaces securely chocking wheels that remain on the ground.

Floor jack and stand procedure

How to Jack Up and Support the Car for an Oil Change

This is a general workflow. The exact jack point, stand point, lifting sequence and adapter design must come from the vehicle and equipment manufacturers.

Complete the vehicle-preparation checklist. Confirm level ground, engine off, transmission secured, parking brake applied and wheels chocked.

Inspect the floor jack and both stands. Check ratings, hydraulic operation, saddle condition, locks and bases before placing anything under the vehicle.

Set both stands to the same height. Engage matching locking positions and install the manufacturer’s pins or secondary locks when supplied.

Position the floor jack at the verified lift point. Center the saddle fully. Use an approved pad or adapter only when the vehicle or equipment procedure calls for it.

Take up contact slowly. Pump the jack until the saddle touches the lift point. Stop and recheck alignment before the suspension begins to rise.

Raise the vehicle gradually. Watch the jack, saddle, vehicle and wheel chocks. The floor jack may roll slightly as the lifting geometry changes; its path must remain clear and smooth.

Stop if the saddle shifts or the vehicle moves sideways. Lower the vehicle completely and correct the setup. Do not push the jack back into position while it carries the load.

Raise only high enough for the stands and required access. Extra height raises the vehicle’s center of gravity and may require taller, less stable stand positions.

Position both stands at the approved support points. Center each point in its saddle. Do not place one stand on the body and the other on a moving suspension component unless the factory procedure specifically requires it.

Lower the vehicle slowly onto the stands. Watch both saddles as the weight transfers. Stop immediately if a stand tilts, slides or contacts the vehicle incorrectly.

Confirm that both stands carry the load evenly. The bases should sit flat with posts vertical and locking mechanisms fully engaged.

Keep the floor jack as a non-load-bearing backup when practical. After the stands carry the vehicle, the jack may remain lightly positioned at the approved lift point without lifting or disturbing the stand load. Never treat this as a substitute for stands.

Perform a controlled stability check from outside. Without placing any body part beneath the car, apply a small controlled push at a strong exterior area. The vehicle should not shift on the stands.

Recheck every wheel chock and stand. Confirm the stand locks, saddle contact and ground contact one final time.

Only then move into the work area. Keep your exit direction open and avoid unnecessary force that could rock the vehicle.

Stand bases Flat, fully contacting the ground

Stand posts Vertical and locked at equal heights

Support points Centered fully in the saddles

Grounded wheels Chocked against forward and rearward movement

Do not go underneath while the vehicle is being raised, lowered or repositioned. Keep your head, shoulders, hands and feet outside the vehicle’s possible fall path until it is fully supported and stable.

Drive-on ramp alternative

How to Use Car Ramps for an Oil Change

Ramps can remove the jack-to-stand transfer, but they still require correct capacity, alignment, traction and wheel chocking. Follow the ramp manufacturer’s instructions.

Confirm that the ramps fit the vehicle. Check rated capacity, tire width, approach angle, ramp height and ground clearance.

Inspect both ramps. Do not use cracked, deformed, corroded or contaminated ramps.

Place them on hard, level ground. Align each ramp straight with the tire. Both ramps must sit evenly and resist sliding.

Use a spotter when visibility is limited. The spotter must remain to the side—never directly in front of or behind the vehicle.

Drive up slowly and smoothly. Avoid sudden throttle that could push the ramps, overshoot the stops or damage a low bumper.

Stop with both tires centered in the ramp cradles. Do not work when one tire is partly off the ramp or one ramp has moved.

Secure the vehicle. Select Park or gear, apply the parking brake, switch off the engine and chock the wheels remaining on the ground.

Check stability before going underneath. Confirm that neither ramp has shifted, tilted or sunk.

Account for the vehicle angle. Confirm that the manufacturer’s drain procedure permits the angle and perform the final oil-level check on level ground.

Use a spotter when driving down. Clear tools, drain pans and people from the ramp path before starting the engine.

Ramps can slide: Painted floors, dust, oil, water and smooth tiles can reduce traction. Do not crawl under until both ramps remain fully seated under the tires.

Never stand in front of the car while guiding it onto ramps. Stay outside its possible travel path and communicate through the driver’s open window.

Different vehicles need different lift plans

Special Jacking Considerations for SUVs, Trucks, Hybrids and EVs

Low-clearance cars

Jack access may be the first problem

A standard floor jack may contact the bumper or undertray before reaching the approved point. Use a suitable low-profile jack or approved low-angle ramp system.

SUVs and pickups

Capacity and height both matter

A jack may have enough load capacity but insufficient lifting height. Stands extended near maximum height may also provide less practical stability.

Body-on-frame trucks

Frame and axle points differ

Supporting the frame allows the suspension to hang, while supporting an axle keeps that axle loaded. Follow the exact service procedure.

Hybrid vehicles

High-voltage areas must be avoided

Use the designated structural lift points. Do not place a jack or stand beneath a battery enclosure, cable guard or high-voltage component.

Battery-electric vehicles

Battery packs occupy the floor area

Some EVs require lift pucks or specific adapters. Incorrect contact can damage the battery enclosure and create a serious hazard.

Air suspension

Disable automatic height changes

Use the manufacturer’s jack, service or suspension mode so the system does not attempt to level the vehicle while it is raised.

Lowered vehicles

Modified geometry changes access

Aftermarket suspension can reduce jack access and change how stands contact the body or subframe.

Rust-damaged vehicles

Factory points may be weakened

Corroded pinch welds, frames or subframes may collapse under load. Obtain professional inspection before lifting.

Recently damaged vehicles

Impact damage can distort lift points

Do not use a bent, torn or repaired point without confirming that it can safely carry the load.

Work safely beneath the supported vehicle

Oil Change Safety While the Car Is Raised

Before loosening the drain plug

Vehicle is fully supported by stands or rated ramps
Jack and support points remain centered
Wheel chocks remain firmly positioned
Engine is switched off
Exhaust and oil temperature are safe to approach
Drain pan exceeds the complete oil capacity
Correct drain-plug socket is ready
New washer or seal is available
Correct filter and replacement oil are ready
Exit path is clear

Stop working when

A stand shifts, tilts or makes unusual noise
A wheel chock moves
The vehicle rocks unexpectedly
The floor surface cracks or sinks
The drain plug or filter requires force that rocks the vehicle
Oil contacts a hot exhaust component
Someone enters or leans on the vehicle
Weather makes the surface wet or unstable

Loosen stubborn components without rocking the car: Recheck the correct tool, access angle and tightening direction. Do not use your body weight to jerk a breaker bar while lying beneath the vehicle.

Keep tools off your chest: Use a low tray placed outside your main exit path. Loose tools can injure you or prevent quick movement.

Finish without rushing

How to Lower the Vehicle Safely After the Oil Change

Complete a tool and component count. Confirm that the drain plug, oil filter, filler cap and underbody panels are installed and no tools remain beneath the car.

Move the drain pan, creeper and supplies away. Clear the vehicle’s lowering path and the jack’s rolling path.

Keep all people outside the vehicle. Nobody should enter, start or rock the vehicle while stands are being removed.

Position the floor jack at the approved lift point. Center the saddle and raise only enough to remove the load from both stands.

Remove both stands. Move them fully away from the vehicle before lowering.

Lower the vehicle slowly and continuously. Watch the jack wheels, saddle and body clearance as the suspension compresses.

Remove the jack only after the vehicle rests fully on the ground. Do not reach under a partly lowered vehicle to retrieve equipment.

Keep the wheels chocked during the initial check. Start the engine only after the car is fully grounded and the work area is clear.

Run the engine briefly and switch it off. Confirm that the oil-pressure warning goes out normally. Stop immediately if it remains on.

Inspect for leaks from outside. Use a flashlight to look beneath the drain-plug and filter areas without sliding under an unsupported car.

Wait and check the oil level on level ground. Follow the owner’s-manual procedure and add oil gradually if required.

Remove the wheel chocks last. Store the lifting equipment and used oil safely before moving the vehicle.

Never pull a jack stand out from beneath a vehicle until the jack has securely taken the load at the approved point.

Avoid shortcuts with crushing risk

Dangerous Car-Jacking Mistakes

Working under the emergency jack

A factory jack can tilt, move or fail. It is intended for the manufacturer’s stated emergency procedure—not supporting a person under the vehicle.

Using the oil pan as a jack point

The pan can bend, crack or transfer force into the oil pickup. Use only a documented structural lift point.

Lifting on a slope

The jack and stands are designed for vertical loads on firm, level ground—not a sideways component created by a driveway slope.

Using bricks or concrete blocks

Brittle blocks can crack suddenly and provide no controlled saddle or locking system.

Placing stands under thin sheet metal

Unreinforced floor panels can crush or puncture, allowing the vehicle to fall or damaging fuel, brake or electrical systems.

Raising the vehicle higher than needed

Unnecessary height raises the center of gravity and may require stands to be extended farther.

Failing to chock both directions

A single chock on one side of a tire may not stop movement in the opposite direction.

Rocking a stuck filter or drain plug loose

Large, uncontrolled force can shift the vehicle on its supports. Stop and improve the tool or access setup.

Leaving someone inside the vehicle

Entry, seat movement, door slamming or steering input can disturb a raised vehicle.

Assuming stand capacity solves everything

A high capacity rating does not correct an uneven surface, wrong support point, tilted stand or off-center saddle.

Stop and reset the lift

What to Do When the Jack or Stands Do Not Look Stable

Problem	Possible reason	Immediate action	Safer correction
Floor jack rolls sideways	Incorrect alignment, rough floor or vehicle movement	Stop lifting and lower fully.	Realign the jack on a smooth, hard surface and recheck the lift point.
Jack stand tilts as weight transfers	Uneven ground, off-center point or mismatched stand height	Raise the vehicle back onto the jack without going underneath.	Lower completely and rebuild the setup.
Pinch weld starts bending	Wrong location, wrong saddle or missing adapter	Stop and lower the vehicle.	Verify the reinforced point and approved adapter.
Jack will not lift high enough	Insufficient jack travel or unsuitable lifting point	Do not stack random objects under it.	Use equipment with the correct minimum and maximum height.
Stand is at its maximum extension	Stand is too short for the vehicle	Do not work underneath.	Use appropriately sized rated stands or another lifting system.
Vehicle rocks during stability check	Poor saddle contact, stand position or wheel restraint	Do not enter the work area.	Raise, remove the stands and restart the setup.
Jack slowly loses height	Hydraulic leak or internal valve problem	Remove it from service.	Repair or replace it according to the jack manufacturer.
Ramp moves while driving up	Low traction, misalignment or sudden throttle	Stop and reverse off only when safe.	Reposition on a suitable surface or use another lifting method.

Never try to catch, hold or straighten a shifting vehicle with your body. Move away from the fall zone and let the equipment and vehicle settle before deciding how to recover safely.

Car jacking FAQs

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use the emergency jack for an oil change?

Do not work beneath a vehicle supported only by the emergency jack. It is generally intended for the manufacturer’s roadside wheel-change procedure. Use approved stands, rated ramps or another properly locked lifting system for under-vehicle work.

Where should I place the floor jack?

Place it only at a lifting point identified for the exact vehicle. Consult the owner’s manual or factory repair information because the emergency side-jack points may differ from a central floor-jack point.

Where should the jack stands go?

Use the manufacturer-approved support or safety-stand points. Plan their positions before lifting so the floor jack does not block them.

Are ramps safer than a jack and jack stands?

Properly rated ramps can simplify an oil change because the wheels remain supported, but ramps can still slide or be overshot. They require hard level ground, correct alignment, centered tires, wheel chocks and manufacturer-compliant use.

Can I use jack stands on asphalt?

Soft or hot asphalt can allow jack wheels or stand feet to sink and tilt. Sound, level concrete is a safer common surface. Do not improvise a base when the underlying surface is unsuitable.

Should the parking brake be on when jacking up a car?

Apply the parking brake unless the exact vehicle procedure requires otherwise. Also select Park or an appropriate manual-transmission gear and chock the wheels remaining on the ground.

How many jack stands do I need for an oil change?

When raising one complete end of a vehicle, use a compatible matched pair positioned at the approved left and right support points. Follow the stand manufacturer’s instructions and never rely on one stand for an entire raised end.

How high should I jack up the car?

Raise it only high enough to position the stands and obtain safe working access. Unnecessary height raises the center of gravity and may require greater stand extension.

Can I leave the floor jack under the car with the stands?

After the stands carry the vehicle, the floor jack may remain lightly positioned at an approved point as a backup when practical. It must not lift or destabilize the vehicle and never replaces properly positioned stands.

How do I lower the car after the oil change?

Clear all tools and people, raise the vehicle slightly at the approved point, remove both stands, lower slowly onto the ground, remove the jack and perform the final leak and oil-level checks on level ground.

Official safety references

Sources Used for This Vehicle-Lifting Guide

Jacking points, vehicle modes and lifting procedures vary by model year, body style, drivetrain and market. Always use the exact owner’s manual and equipment instructions as the final authority.

Last official-source review: July 26, 2026.

Independent automotive safety information: EngineOiil-Capacity.com is an independent informational website and is not a vehicle manufacturer, lifting-equipment manufacturer, dealership or repair facility. Lifting and supporting a vehicle can cause fatal crushing injuries if equipment, ground conditions or support points are incorrect. Follow the exact vehicle, jack, stand and ramp instructions. Never work beneath a vehicle supported only by a jack. When approved support points or equipment compatibility cannot be verified, use a qualified professional workshop.